Keeping Your Bird Healthy

Keeping Your Bird Healthy by Rebecca Margison

I am not an avian veterinarian, nor a breeder. I have kept birds in my home since1988. Most of that time I was extremely ignorant of the information available regarding bird care. Over the last few years I have done extensive research into the needs of captive exotic birds. I do not claim to be an authority. This list is simply a product of my research, talking to other bird people, and my own experiences with my own parrots. I urge all parrot guardians to do their own research on parrot care. You are ultimately responsible for your birds!

**Know your bird! Know his daily habits-- eating (how much and how often), sleeping, vocalizations, molting schedule, general disposition, dropping frequency and appearance. Newspaper or paper towels are a preferable cage lining compared to corn cob-type bedding. Newspaper or cage paper liners are safe if ingested (though you should still monitor to be sure you bird doesn't ingest anything other than food since it can result in an impaction which can kill your bird) and you can easily monitor your bird's droppings. Any subtle change in your birds' daily habits should cause concern. Don't feel silly about taking your bird to the vet because she is singing less, eating less, sleeping more, etc.

**Weigh your bird regularly! A gram scale is an invaluable tool for keeping track of your bird's health. Because birds instinctively hide illness, a drop in weight can be your early warning sign that something is wrong. Young birds (a year or less) should be weighed daily. Baby birds will generally lose a significant amount of weight in between weaning and fledging. This is normal. However, you should still check with the bird's vet to determine if the amount of loss is normal. For older birds (over a year or so), a 10% weight loss indicates a problem. For example, a 100 gram Cockatiel that loses 10 grams will usually be gravelly ill. Monitor your bird's weight so you can detect illness before any signs are shown.

**Don't allow your bird to wander around on the floor, even supervised. Birds are like toddlers-- they will put anything in their mouths. Even supervised, birds can ingest things from your carpet, get stepped on, chew on paint or power cords, or worse. Keep birds in large cages and aviaries, on playgyms and perches, or on your body. Be careful not to let birds chew on jewelry that could contain harmful metals like lead or zinc. Always be aware when you have a bird out -- always monitor doors/windows to prevent accidental escape.

**Feed a nutritious diet. Variety is key. This means providing a high-quality organic pelleted diet, such as Harrison's, Zupreem Natural (not organic, but all-natural), or Foundation Formula, for example, as about 1/3 of the total diet. I prefer to use pellets that do not contain any preservatives, artificial colors or flavors. There are many different opinions regarding pellets, and there is also very little scientific information available regarding their effect on health and longevity. Speak to your Avian Veterinarian before attempting to convert a bird to a different diet. The use of pellets in parrot diets is still controversial and not all parrot guardians agree that feeding pellets is healthy. Fresh foods should also be provided, especially vegetables. Live foods contain enzymes that aren't provided in pellets. Veggies high in Vitamin A and Calcium should always be offered. Avoid salt, sugar, and human foods that are unhealthy. Please refer to the writings of Dr. Alicia McWatters for more information on a proper diet. Know what foods are toxic to birds (avocado, chocolate, caffeine, etc). Seed is usually considered ok for about 1/3 or less of the diet, but it should never be a bird's total diet. Be careful with supplements. Always consult an Avian Veterinarian before using them-- it is generally not recommended to use supplements if the parrot is on a pelleted diet. The problem of over-supplementation is often as harmful as malnutrition. Remember; we don't even know what a perfect diet is for humans, let alone parrots. Pellet and seed manufacturers will most often declare their product is a healthy and nutritious diet. Talk to your vet, and make a point to educate yourself as to the nutritional needs of your particular species. Malnutrition is still the number one cause of disease and death in companion parrots. Feed them the best diet possible!

**Make sure your bird gets enough sleep. Most birds are equitorial, meaning that in their wild environment, they would be getting 12 hours of light and 12 hours of dark. In your home, they should still be getting 10-12 hours of sleep. Lack of sleep can cause behavior problems such as screaming and aggression. A small sleeping cage placed in an unoccupied room at night is an excellent way to make sure your bird gets the rest he needs.

** Provide for your bird's social and intellectual needs. Most people think that keeping a single bird who is bonded to people is the best way to keep birds. Did you know that in the wild, exotic birds are often with each other 24 hours a day? Can you provide this kind of social interaction for your bird? Probably not. For the well-being of your bird, consider keeping bonded pairs of birds. Do not allow them to breed; there are enough birds in need of loving homes already, we don't need more. Birds who have other birds around are usually happier and better adjusted to life in captivity than those who depend upon humans for their social needs. Be sure to also provide a variety of toys to keep your parrot occupied during the day.

**Keep your bird safe in your home. Wing clipping, once considered a "necessary evil" of keeping birds in homes, is now being re-evaluated. A bird should be allowed to fledge safely so that she develops confidence, balance, and muscle strength. Birds were designed for flight, but you must take necessary precautions when keeping a flighted bird in your home. A fully-flighted bird can be disaster waiting to happen. Ceiling fans, windows, mirrors, open doors, pots of boiling water, etc, are dangers that a fully-flighted bird can encounter. Many birds are lost when their caretaker absent-mindedly leaves her house with her bird still on her shoulder. If certain accomodations are made, birds do get many benefits from being flighted. Birds get beneficial exercise and mental stimulation from flight. If you choose to keep birds in your home, please consider building or purchasing a large aviary. Birds should not be allowed outdoors unless in a secure cage, aviary, carrier, or harness. The danger from hawks and other predatory birds is very real, and often the presence of a human will not stop them from attacking. When startled, nearly all birds can fly even when fully clipped. Microchipping is an excellent way to protect your bird should she become lost. It's relatively inexpensive, does not cause any damage to the bird, and sometimes it may be your only way to prove "ownership" of a bird should she end up in someone's home or a pet store. Most vets have the equipment to microchip.

**Get regular veterinary care from an Avian Vet. It is expensive, but that cost should be factored into the total cost of the bird plus all supplies when deciding to adopt a bird. If you cannot afford vet care, you cannot afford a bird. Try to take your bird to a Board-Certified Avian Vet. If there are none in your area, ask for references from the local bird club or other bird caretakers in your area (the internet is a great way to meet these folks!).

**Quarantine all new birds. Your new bird should be taken immediately to an Avian Vet, and he or she will tell you how long to quarantine. The average time is 30-90 days. Birds can carry illnesses that may not show up immediately on blood tests. Also, make sure your existing birds are healthy to avoid giving the new bird (baby birds are especially vulnerable to illness) any infections or diseases. Nearly all bird diseases are airborne. They can be carried from bird shops, aviaries, someone's home, back on your clothes, shoes, hands, etc, and passed onto your bird. Be sure to wash thoroughly, and change shoes and clothes after handling other birds before handling your own birds.

**Keep your bird warm. Most birds are fine as long as the temperature is constant and doesn't fluctuate too drastically. Remember that birds cannot put on another sweater or blanket if they get cold. Most birds are comfortable at temperatures humans are-- 70-80 degrees. Be sure your bird is warm enough at night. You can purchase a heat-emitter that can attach to your birds' cage. A heating pad draped over one side of the cage may also help, just be sure nothing can be chewed on from inside the cage. Sick birds will need more heat- your vet will tell you how warm to keep a sick bird. In general, birds kept in captivity do not need to be kept in near-tropical conditions. You won't need to keep your thermastat up all winter! Just keep your birds away from cold drafts from windows/air conditioners.

**Keep your bird's environment clean and safe. Inspect all toys, perches, playgyms, etc. regularly for loose parts, frays, sharp edges, etc. Food and water dishes should be cleaned at least once a day, as well as the cage grate and cage/aviary bars. Use a disinfectant such as Oxyfresh or Citricidal, since these are non-toxic and will kill bacteria and viruses when used properly. Paper should be used to line the botton of the cage/aviary, and this should be changed daily. Birds in the wild are not accustomed to exposure to their own droppings. Even if birds cannot ingest their old droppings, they can inhale dust from these droppings and suffer ill effects. Old food can also present problems and cause fungal infections and other illnesses. Make sure all toys are appropriate for your bird's size. Birds larger than a cockatiel should not be given toys with key-ring type or dog chain type attachments on them. Larger birds can get their beaks caught in these. Rope perches should be replaced frequently to prevent birds from injuring themselves on frays and loose strings. Any natural tree branches used should not have pesticides or insects on them. Be sure anything your bird has access to does not contain harmful metals like lead and zinc.

**Keep your birds out of the kitchen. Smoke, steam, strong odors, fumes from over-heated non-stick cookware, open pots of water or oil, hot burners, etc, can all injure or kill your bird.

**Don't expose your bird to toxic fumes. Don't smoke around your bird. Also, don't use candles (especially scented ones), incense, non-stick cookware (which, when heated to high temperatures, will emit fumes that can kill your bird very quickly), room fresheners, perfumes, or any other strong substance that can be inhaled by your bird. Birds have extremely delicate respiratory systems. Whatever a bird breathes is circulated through the bird's body. All birds are different and it's best not to gamble with your bird's health. Additionally, if you have powder-down birds like Greys or Cockatoos, you may need to install an air purifier with a HEPA filter. Other birds could develop respiratory infections from the dust and dander of these birds. Additionally, be sure all smokers wash their hands before handling birds. Compounds in cigarettes that are on smoker's hands can end up on birds feathers', causing itching and feather pulling. The same is true with sweat, dirt, food residue, etc.

** Bathe your bird! Daily or weekly showers are often relished by most parrots and will help to control dust and dander, as well as provide needed moisture to parrots who may be prone to feather picking. Heavy powder down species may need drenching (to the skin) baths daily. All birds have different preferences with bathing; some prefer spray bottles, others prefer a dish of water, others enjoy a good soaking in the shower with you. Experiment and don't give up until you find out what your bird enjoys.

**Educate yourself!! There is so much information available now that we have no excuse not to understand all of what our birds need. Be sure to check copyright dates on books and publications, as certain theories about parrots have changed throughout the years. I prefer publications no more than two years old. The internet is an excellent source of information, but take all advice with a grain of salt. Search out respected names and official sites. Birds kept singly are completely dependent upon you for their physical and emotional needs. You owe it to them to be as knowledgeable as possible regarding their care. Don't rely solely on your vet or on one bird book to tell you everything you need to know to keep your bird healthy. Become a researcher and educate yourself. Your bird will love you for it!

For more information, I recommend the following parrot researchers:

Greg Glendell, behaviorist. Contact: greg@petparrot.freeserv.co.uk

Mike Schindlinger, ethologist. Website: http://www.sneakerfish.com/parrots/Mike.html

Contact: mike_schindlinger@post.harvard.edu



		Keeping Your Bird Healthy by Rebecca Margison

		I am not an avian veterinarian, nor a breeder. I have kept birds in my home since1988. Most of that time I was extremely ignorant of the information available regarding bird care. Over the last few years I have done extensive research into the needs of captive exotic birds. I do not claim to be an authority. This list is simply a product of my research, talking to other bird people, and my own experiences with my own parrots. I urge all parrot guardians to do their own research on parrot care. You are ultimately responsible for your birds! **Know your bird! Know his daily habits-- eating (how much and how often), sleeping, vocalizations, molting schedule, general disposition, dropping frequency and appearance. Newspaper or paper towels are a preferable cage lining compared to corn cob-type bedding. Newspaper or cage paper liners are safe if ingested (though you should still monitor to be sure you bird doesn't ingest anything other than food since it can result in an impaction which can kill your bird) and you can easily monitor your bird's droppings. Any subtle change in your birds' daily habits should cause concern. Don't feel silly about taking your bird to the vet because she is singing less, eating less, sleeping more, etc. **Weigh your bird regularly! A gram scale is an invaluable tool for keeping track of your bird's health. Because birds instinctively hide illness, a drop in weight can be your early warning sign that something is wrong. Young birds (a year or less) should be weighed daily. Baby birds will generally lose a significant amount of weight in between weaning and fledging. This is normal. However, you should still check with the bird's vet to determine if the amount of loss is normal. For older birds (over a year or so), a 10% weight loss indicates a problem. For example, a 100 gram Cockatiel that loses 10 grams will usually be gravelly ill. Monitor your bird's weight so you can detect illness before any signs are shown. **Don't allow your bird to wander around on the floor, even supervised. Birds are like toddlers-- they will put anything in their mouths. Even supervised, birds can ingest things from your carpet, get stepped on, chew on paint or power cords, or worse. Keep birds in large cages and aviaries, on playgyms and perches, or on your body. Be careful not to let birds chew on jewelry that could contain harmful metals like lead or zinc. Always be aware when you have a bird out -- always monitor doors/windows to prevent accidental escape. **Feed a nutritious diet. Variety is key. This means providing a high-quality organic pelleted diet, such as Harrison's, Zupreem Natural (not organic, but all-natural), or Foundation Formula, for example, as about 1/3 of the total diet. I prefer to use pellets that do not contain any preservatives, artificial colors or flavors. There are many different opinions regarding pellets, and there is also very little scientific information available regarding their effect on health and longevity. Speak to your Avian Veterinarian before attempting to convert a bird to a different diet. The use of pellets in parrot diets is still controversial and not all parrot guardians agree that feeding pellets is healthy. Fresh foods should also be provided, especially vegetables. Live foods contain enzymes that aren't provided in pellets. Veggies high in Vitamin A and Calcium should always be offered. Avoid salt, sugar, and human foods that are unhealthy. Please refer to the writings of Dr. Alicia McWatters for more information on a proper diet. Know what foods are toxic to birds (avocado, chocolate, caffeine, etc). Seed is usually considered ok for about 1/3 or less of the diet, but it should never be a bird's total diet. Be careful with supplements. Always consult an Avian Veterinarian before using them-- it is generally not recommended to use supplements if the parrot is on a pelleted diet. The problem of over-supplementation is often as harmful as malnutrition. Remember; we don't even know what a perfect diet is for humans, let alone parrots. Pellet and seed manufacturers will most often declare their product is a healthy and nutritious diet. Talk to your vet, and make a point to educate yourself as to the nutritional needs of your particular species. Malnutrition is still the number one cause of disease and death in companion parrots. Feed them the best diet possible! **Make sure your bird gets enough sleep. Most birds are equitorial, meaning that in their wild environment, they would be getting 12 hours of light and 12 hours of dark. In your home, they should still be getting 10-12 hours of sleep. Lack of sleep can cause behavior problems such as screaming and aggression. A small sleeping cage placed in an unoccupied room at night is an excellent way to make sure your bird gets the rest he needs. Provide for your bird's social and intellectual needs. Most people think that keeping a single bird who is bonded to people is the best way to keep birds. Did you know that in the wild, exotic birds are often with each other 24 hours a day? Can you provide this kind of social interaction for your bird? Probably not. For the well-being of your bird, consider keeping bonded pairs of birds. Do not allow them to breed; there are enough birds in need of loving homes already, we don't need more. Birds who have other birds around are usually happier and better adjusted to life in captivity than those who depend upon humans for their social needs. Be sure to also provide a variety of toys to keep your parrot occupied during the day. Keep your bird safe in your home. Wing clipping, once considered a "necessary evil" of keeping birds in homes, is now being re-evaluated. A bird should be allowed to fledge safely so that she develops confidence, balance, and muscle strength. Birds were designed for flight, but you must take necessary precautions when keeping a flighted bird in your home. A fully-flighted bird can be disaster waiting to happen. Ceiling fans, windows, mirrors, open doors, pots of boiling water, etc, are dangers that a fully-flighted bird can encounter. Many birds are lost when their caretaker absent-mindedly leaves her house with her bird still on her shoulder. If certain accomodations are made, birds do get many benefits from being flighted. Birds get beneficial exercise and mental stimulation from flight. If you choose to keep birds in your home, please consider building or purchasing a large aviary. Birds should not be allowed outdoors unless in a secure cage, aviary, carrier, or harness. The danger from hawks and other predatory birds is very real, and often the presence of a human will not stop them from attacking. When startled, nearly all birds can fly even when fully clipped. Microchipping is an excellent way to protect your bird should she become lost. It's relatively inexpensive, does not cause any damage to the bird, and sometimes it may be your only way to prove "ownership" of a bird should she end up in someone's home or a pet store. Most vets have the equipment to microchip. **Get regular veterinary care from an Avian Vet. It is expensive, but that cost should be factored into the total cost of the bird plus all supplies when deciding to adopt a bird. If you cannot afford vet care, you cannot afford a bird. Try to take your bird to a Board-Certified Avian Vet. If there are none in your area, ask for references from the local bird club or other bird caretakers in your area (the internet is a great way to meet these folks!). **Quarantine all new birds. Your new bird should be taken immediately to an Avian Vet, and he or she will tell you how long to quarantine. The average time is 30-90 days. Birds can carry illnesses that may not show up immediately on blood tests. Also, make sure your existing birds are healthy to avoid giving the new bird (baby birds are especially vulnerable to illness) any infections or diseases. Nearly all bird diseases are airborne. They can be carried from bird shops, aviaries, someone's home, back on your clothes, shoes, hands, etc, and passed onto your bird. Be sure to wash thoroughly, and change shoes and clothes after handling other birds before handling your own birds. **Keep your bird warm. Most birds are fine as long as the temperature is constant and doesn't fluctuate too drastically. Remember that birds cannot put on another sweater or blanket if they get cold. Most birds are comfortable at temperatures humans are-- 70-80 degrees. Be sure your bird is warm enough at night. You can purchase a heat-emitter that can attach to your birds' cage. A heating pad draped over one side of the cage may also help, just be sure nothing can be chewed on from inside the cage. Sick birds will need more heat- your vet will tell you how warm to keep a sick bird. In general, birds kept in captivity do not need to be kept in near-tropical conditions. You won't need to keep your thermastat up all winter! Just keep your birds away from cold drafts from windows/air conditioners. **Keep your bird's environment clean and safe. Inspect all toys, perches, playgyms, etc. regularly for loose parts, frays, sharp edges, etc. Food and water dishes should be cleaned at least once a day, as well as the cage grate and cage/aviary bars. Use a disinfectant such as Oxyfresh or Citricidal, since these are non-toxic and will kill bacteria and viruses when used properly. Paper should be used to line the botton of the cage/aviary, and this should be changed daily. Birds in the wild are not accustomed to exposure to their own droppings. Even if birds cannot ingest their old droppings, they can inhale dust from these droppings and suffer ill effects. Old food can also present problems and cause fungal infections and other illnesses. Make sure all toys are appropriate for your bird's size. Birds larger than a cockatiel should not be given toys with key-ring type or dog chain type attachments on them. Larger birds can get their beaks caught in these. Rope perches should be replaced frequently to prevent birds from injuring themselves on frays and loose strings. Any natural tree branches used should not have pesticides or insects on them. Be sure anything your bird has access to does not contain harmful metals like lead and zinc. **Keep your birds out of the kitchen. Smoke, steam, strong odors, fumes from over-heated non-stick cookware, open pots of water or oil, hot burners, etc, can all injure or kill your bird. **Don't expose your bird to toxic fumes. Don't smoke around your bird. Also, don't use candles (especially scented ones), incense, non-stick cookware (which, when heated to high temperatures, will emit fumes that can kill your bird very quickly), room fresheners, perfumes, or any other strong substance that can be inhaled by your bird. Birds have extremely delicate respiratory systems. Whatever a bird breathes is circulated through the bird's body. All birds are different and it's best not to gamble with your bird's health. Additionally, if you have powder-down birds like Greys or Cockatoos, you may need to install an air purifier with a HEPA filter. Other birds could develop respiratory infections from the dust and dander of these birds. Additionally, be sure all smokers wash their hands before handling birds. Compounds in cigarettes that are on smoker's hands can end up on birds feathers', causing itching and feather pulling. The same is true with sweat, dirt, food residue, etc. Bathe your bird! Daily or weekly showers are often relished by most parrots and will help to control dust and dander, as well as provide needed moisture to parrots who may be prone to feather picking. Heavy powder down species may need drenching (to the skin) baths daily. All birds have different preferences with bathing; some prefer spray bottles, others prefer a dish of water, others enjoy a good soaking in the shower with you. Experiment and don't give up until you find out what your bird enjoys. Educate yourself!! There is so much information available now that we have no excuse not to understand all of what our birds need. Be sure to check copyright dates on books and publications, as certain theories about parrots have changed throughout the years. I prefer publications no more than two years old. The internet is an excellent source of information, but take all advice with a grain of salt. Search out respected names and official sites. Birds kept singly are completely dependent upon you for their physical and emotional needs. You owe it to them to be as knowledgeable as possible regarding their care. Don't rely solely on your vet or on one bird book to tell you everything you need to know to keep your bird healthy. Become a researcher and educate yourself. Your bird will love you for it! For more information, I recommend the following parrot researchers: Greg Glendell, behaviorist. Contact: greg@petparrot.freeserv.co.uk Mike Schindlinger, ethologist. Website: http://www.sneakerfish.com/parrots/Mike.html Contact: mike_schindlinger@post.harvard.edu Copyright © 2001 by Rebecca Margison

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